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User Info Please Stop Being Stupid in forum [Market-Ticker]
Toddmeister
Posts: 122
Incept: 2009-08-10

Bay City, MI
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I put a Range OBDII Stop/Start Disabler on our 2018 Traverse. I don't think frequent hot start/stop cycles in city traffic will contribute to drivetrain longevity.

I also have an old 1995 GMC 3/4 ton pickup with the 6.5 turbo diesel. I've had to replace all the brake lines over time. The engine had a troublesome injector pump system, but the aftermarket took care of that issue. It's been a very reliable vehicle, but the Michigan winters are taking a toll on the ole truck's body/frame. This truck is very easy to service and parts are readily available/cheap.

My other truck is a 2016 GMC duramax pickup. Love the power/comfort, but hate the emissions system. Have had the air intake heater and DEF tank heater replaced so far in 50K miles, covered under warranty. If I keep it long term some of the emissions parts may need to "fall" off, although that is getting more difficult to do with the EPA Gestapos lately.
Mishmash
Posts: 54
Incept: 2008-05-01

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Greenacr my ford has S/S also, and I press the off button every single time I start the car. Too bad it's not permanent!
Cmoledor
Posts: 128
Incept: 2021-04-13

Akron Ohio
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This going to be one of those posts that makes me real sorry for the beautiful 70s cars I destroyed as dumb teenager. The money theyd be worth now. Sigh.

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The whole world is one big ****ing scam
Why are you giving a vulgarity warning here? Our genial host is an advocate of both skull****ing and sodomy via rusty chainsaw. Credit to Rollformer
Jdough
Posts: 164
Incept: 2012-05-04

Texifornia
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@Tickerguy -- I have a 04 Silverado 1500 4x4 about 140k miles that is making a clunk and pulling left at low speed I've jacked up the vehicle under the lower control arm on that side no vertical play in the wheel but some horizontal play and a clunk sound when I move it. I'm thinking it may be tie rod ends but this is my first real suspension issue I've tried to diagnose. Have you run into anything like this on your suburban? From some stuff I've read in online forums getting these front end issues figured out has driven some people mad.

I wish GM (and other manufacturers) would focus on fixing the basic features of their vehicles and leave this crap alone. I've had to replace the intake manifold gasket because it was leaking coolant a known problem with these trucks, the instrument panel because the step motors they used for the gauges were utter garbage, and the A/C fill port. I also see what you are talking about with the brake lines luckily the truck has been in central Texas it's whole life and has never been driven on treated roads I think I have a little more time on that.

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We didn't love freedom enough. And even more we had no awareness of the real situation.... We purely and simply deserved everything that happened afterward.
Tickerguy
Posts: 175288
Incept: 2007-06-26
A True American Patriot!
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@Drifter -
Quote:
2004 Tahoe flex edition-- rear bumper is rusting, just noticed. Looks like from the inside out-- hopefully aftermarkets out there. I like doing my own work, but I might farm those brake lines to a mechanic patient of mine. The thought of it makes me want to just put the rig down like a lame mule.

Do it BEFORE they fail.

Run the fuel tank nearly empty and drop the tank. There are a few minor tricks to doing that but it's not as bad as it sounds, although you may have to cut the fill and vent hoses off (careful - the fittings are plastic and if you damage them the replacement hoses will NOT seal so now you're buying a new fuel tank!) This, of course, assumes you do it proactively. In addition if the fuel pump is original CHANGE IT while the tank is out; the new design is VASTLY superior and GM should have recalled ALL OF THEM years ago. Note that there is an anti-siphon (and anti-ignition) screen on the inlet of the fuel tank so forget about trying to get cute and siphoning out the gas down the fill pipe. The hose will never get into the tank. The other option for emptying it is to jump the fuel pump relay terminals with a test fitting and hose on the fuel rail pressure test point into jerry cans.

The only OTHER way to do the lines is to remove the body mounts on the driver side and lift the body about 2" off the frame to get the clearance required. That requires multiple jackstands to support everything while you're doing it and you have to be CAREFUL you don't rip parts of the wiring harness apart lifting the body.

Incidentally the front right line is a mother****er and that's the one that likes to trap water where you can't see it and thus you won't catch it before you get screwed. The visible part to the jump hose on my truck looked perfectly fine -- it perforated where there was no ****ing way to see it as it was behind all the shrouding up front. Bastards.

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I don't give a flying **** if you're offended.
Tickerguy
Posts: 175288
Incept: 2007-06-26
A True American Patriot!
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@Jdough - Nope, but be aware that there is a KNOWN sector-shaft issue (from the wheel assembly to the steering box) that GM just managed to actually come up with a part that doesn't fail again within 20k miles in the last couple of years.

HOWEVER, that was a noise issue only, NOT pulling left. If it's pulling left and you have lateral play one or more tie rod ends are likely the cause. Get a helper and see what moves when the wheel is off the ground and moved in the various directions and replace anything suspect. A tie rod end failure on the road is BAD NEWS.

As for the truck being in Texas mine was in Florida and there is ZERO corrosion anywhere on the frame and other items under the vehicle. Don't believe for a second you're safe with those brake lines -- the visible parts may well look perfectly fine (mine did) and **** you hard without warning.

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I don't give a flying **** if you're offended.
Jdough
Posts: 164
Incept: 2012-05-04

Texifornia
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Regarding my earlier post the treated roads wouldn't matter for the way you're describing the issue, we get plenty of rain here to get water where it will do the damage.

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We didn't love freedom enough. And even more we had no awareness of the real situation.... We purely and simply deserved everything that happened afterward.
Riceday
Posts: 763
Incept: 2009-10-30

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Love the Excursion V10, and I'm inclined to keep it and eventually do the whole Katzkin thing since I've pretty much fixed everything else.
Radiator, transmission, suspension, paint, severe duty alternator, backup camera and a bunch of other stuff.

But I'm in the market for a used (paying cash) 30 mpg vehicle for highway time since 11-13 mpg just isn't cutting it. With additional drivers in the family, I'll let someone else enjoy the Ex.

Maybe an old Jetta or an A4? I've had good luck with Hondas, but I want something a little more interesting but not stupid on maintenance.
Tickerguy
Posts: 175288
Incept: 2007-06-26
A True American Patriot!
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The ALH Jettas, if you can find one that isn't destroyed, is IMHO a VERY solid choice -- with a STICK. The slushbox, not so much. The wagons are even better, but at this point unicorns. My kid has my old one; they were somewhat rare originally but by now finding one that wasn't wrecked or up in the salt and rusted all to **** is a problem.

IF you don't **** them up the engines are frequently good for 500k miles.

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I don't give a flying **** if you're offended.

Handyone55
Posts: 286
Incept: 2010-07-06

Ceciltucky, Maryland
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There is an aftermarket part that makes ANY automatic transmission last longer. The Magnefine transmission filter contains a 30 micron filter element and a powerful ring magnet for trapping metal fines. The filter itself is a stainless steel can that you splice into the transmission cooler line. Every 30 K miles or so, replace the filter.

I have seen Magnefines cut open on YouTube. The filter element is clean but the magnet is covered with fuzz composed of metal powder and trans fluid. The stock transmission filter is usually a window screen that catches only large debris. I use a Magnefine on an old Dodge Caravan used for trailer towing. With a Magnefine and a big trans cooler, I tow to campgrounds in the South Carolina mountains with no problems.

Magnefine filters used to have a black plastic housing. Some offshore counterfeiter was selling cheap copies that split and dumped all the trans fluid. The new stainless can is much sturdier. I buy right from the Magnefine website to get the genuine filter. Sorry if I sound like Billy Mays :-) I have no financial interest in Magnefine.
Drifter
Posts: 800
Incept: 2016-02-11

Pacific Northwest
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Thanks Karl. Where did you find the Ni/Copper lines? All I can find is stainless, at my usual sources.
Wayiwalk
Posts: 162
Incept: 2016-11-09

New Yersey
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I have the Honda Odyssey (owner of a newer one and had one prior to this).

It has Variable Cylinder Management - from a definition online, "Owners of vehicles equipped with VCM frequently face vibration problems due to engine motor mount malfunction while ECO mode is enabled."

Yup. Definitely the case. It wore out the engine mounts once, and was on the way for round two. For us, it is an obvious negative but we still got something like 189K on the car before it was run down enough in other areas to justify replacing it. The expense for that replacement was somewhat less than the savings from fuel costs/gas mileage, but it's not like they tell about that required expense when you buy the car. For us, the pros outweighed the cons. Very handy to have a minivan for transporting building supplies and such. Long enough in the interior for 10' lumber and it is all in the vehicle, stuff like 4'x8's etc. In expensive car for what you get. That said....it's a minivan.

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The Lockdowns Will Continue Until the Morale Improves!
Augeries
Posts: 201
Incept: 2019-09-26

North of Boston, but not North enough.
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Interesting read today. I'm not much of a car guy but maybe I should be. Any opinions floating around about CVTs? My 2015 Impreza just passed 100k miles. So far so good, especially in the land of salt and sand.

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I'm Team Virus. It Deserves to Win.

The World is Quiet Here
Chevyman
Posts: 2
Incept: 2021-07-14

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I also wouldn't want a new(er) truck even if it was given to me. Much prefer an older, simpler vehicle like my early 90s Chevy pickup. I do most of my own repairs and maintenance on it, but as another poster mentioned, it's getting more difficult to find parts for a 30 year old vehicle, and salvage yards are your friend. It runs great, but needs more frequent maintenance due to its age. Still very reliable nevertheless. I'd rather do more maintenance than have an expensive car payment, insurance, property taxes, etc. Trucks of this vintage are easily capable of going 300,000 miles on the original engine (and have better styling than new trucks, in my opinion)

Also used to own a 1998 Honda Civic that ran and handled great. Brake lines notorious for rotting on those cars. I replaced them with copper/nickel brake lines, and will probably do the same on the pickup.

I also think the newer vehicles that have automatically stopping/starting engines at a stoplight are ridiculous, along with 8 or 10 speed automatic transmissions. Karl has got the right idea.
Jc3
Posts: 176
Incept: 2020-03-02

South Texas 93 miles from Houston
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@Fakehustle: In a similar boat. We have a 2000 Chevy Express van bought for $2700 cash in 2013(IIRC) with 140K miles, 4.3V6 and 4L60E. Trans got rebuilt for $1200 at about 205K miles, rearend seal went along with pinion bearing so the entire rearend was redone(another $1100) at about 240K miles. It has 297K on it now and it my daily driver. Told wifey when the engine goes it will be replaced/rebuilt as it has proven to be reliable even surviving the wonderful GM "coolant in oil" manifold gasket event(at 180K). We also have an XP laptop that is ONLY used for running SCANTOOL software for our 2 vans.

Son is considering a replacement engine(V6) in a minivan he has(220K miles, 2001 Dodge Caravan) due to current vehicle prices AND some not-honest mechs buying used cars, putting band-aid repairs on them, and then selling them for profit in his area(San Antonio). Trans was redone 5,000 miles ago along with replacing a cracked flexplate. We do know that Dodge/Chrysler of that era are electrical nightmares, the CARFAX we pulled for this van prior showed that but the vehicle was given to us with 170K miles on it and ran fine.
Riceday
Posts: 763
Incept: 2009-10-30

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@TG - not kidding about being hard to find. I can still find a few manual gasoline models, but diesels are close to impossible. I may settle for gas.
Toddmeister
Posts: 122
Incept: 2009-08-10

Bay City, MI
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@Handy

Yep I've used the Magnefine filters on my vehicles, too. Got one on the 95 GMC 4L80E and 18 Traverse 9-speed. The 16 Duramax Allison trans already has a spin-on filter with a magnet to catch the grime. I change it every 30K miles and clean/reuse the magnet.

The 2020 up GM trucks new HD 10-speed "Allisons" no longer have the spin on filter. They also don't have a dipstick to check the level. You have to go underneath the vehicle and remove a plug in the side of the trans to check the fluid level. That sucks. If you have to add fluid, another higher plug in the side of the trans needs to be removed for fluid entry point.
Mannfm11
Posts: 7168
Incept: 2009-02-28

DFW, Tx
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I had to pull a trailer with mine a few years ago. 9 to 10 MPG is about right. I was pulling about 6000 pounds.

My F150 is a 2016. I don't know if I have that feature or not. It idles differently than my 2001 and seems to do a lot better around town. It is the reverse of my Mercedes, which seems to get peak mileage around 70 MPH and does damn well at near 80. They weigh about the same, but the drag on the car is significantly better. I think they would do much better, if they had a feature to let the wind out of the tailgate. I guess there would be too much error in that.

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The only function of economic forecasting is to make astrology look respectable.---John Kenneth Galbraith
Tickerguy
Posts: 175288
Incept: 2007-06-26
A True American Patriot!
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@Drifter - DO NOT use stainless!

Brake line fittings are flares. This means the softer material deforms to make the seal. Stainless is EXTREMELY hard, thus it will be the other item that deforms.

Well, if that's your ABS pump or master cylinder, guess what happens if you ever loosen that fitting and need to retighten it for some reason? It won't seal and you get to replace the ABS pump! Bring money.

Either buy a couple coils of the tubing, a cutting and flare tool and make your own or you can get pre-made kits for various vehicles; "Ez-Fit" is a company that makes the pre-cut lengths with fittings already on them for various vehicles. CuNi can be formed by hand (use a mandrel for tight bends) unlike the other stuff.

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I don't give a flying **** if you're offended.
Seektruth
Posts: 1094
Incept: 2007-09-01
A True American Patriot!

Online
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I disabled that auto start/stop BS on my F150. Thankfully it doesn't have the cylinder deactivation (5.0 in 2021 F150 does though). I do have a 10 speed trans to worry about. I don't usually keep a vehicle that long so don't worry about long term so much, but that's changing. Kinda wanting an early 2000's something, either truck or SUV, to keep long term. My current long term vehicle is my 1995 Cherokee and the body is falling apart on it.

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Enjoy your stay in Clown World!
Themortgagedude
Posts: 12268
Incept: 2007-12-17

Saint Charles MO
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How about the 21 Tundra. Looking for a truck and it seems like the last of the non turbo bs on a new truck. I just want a solid v8 that will run until I'm dead.

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I think its time we ask ourselves if we still know the freedoms that our founding fathers intended for us. Ronald Reagan 1964
Kfell
Posts: 170
Incept: 2014-09-09

New Hampshire
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Owned a 2012 Acura MDX and loved it. Roomy, plenty of head room and 3rd row seat just in case. It developed a subtle noise in the struts/suspension when going thru the local ski areas pot holed parking lot. I brought it in to replace and was told it was not damaging the vehicle but they back ordered the part. 3 months later and they still had no idea when the part would come in. So i decided to buy a 2018 MDX. HATE IT. it has the lane assist which i have turned off, it has the safety features that alert me when to break that is glitchy, and the acceleration is quacky as it sometimes just sits there when i depress the pedal and then all of a sudden just jumps out of the stop. I wish i had my 2012 back.

I did however purchase 2000 Porsche Boxster 5 speed with 52k miles on it from an old lady for $12,500 in April. Its such a fun car. Highly recommend it. NO bells and whistles, just pure old school German engineering...The ladies and the kids love it as well. People who don't know porsches think its an almost new car. Can't wait for my antique tags in the next few years.
Beerme
Posts: 4
Incept: 2010-04-15

GA
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Instead of Katzkin, you might want to order new leather and seat foam from The Seat Shop. They are around $200 per seat section and another $125 for driver's side seat foam and have videos that all but the most mechanically inept can follow. It's a simple replacement but you will be pissed that GM used such flimsy sheet metal on the seat frame and then didn't even bother to paint it.

Cmoledor
Posts: 128
Incept: 2021-04-13

Akron Ohio
Online
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Off topic but Karl youve been praised over at Barnhardt. Im happy that you reach people. Youre a much needed voice.

https://www.barnhardt.biz/

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The whole world is one big ****ing scam
Why are you giving a vulgarity warning here? Our genial host is an advocate of both skull****ing and sodomy via rusty chainsaw. Credit to Rollformer
Tickerguy
Posts: 175288
Incept: 2007-06-26
A True American Patriot!
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That's not a bad idea....

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I don't give a flying **** if you're offended.
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